The ‘New Age’ man loves the mirror just as much as his female counterpart. They are willing to invest time and money into grooming their skin, hair, physique and clothing. And there are plenty of reasons why ?
Let me begin by clarifying that I am not against good grooming in men. Boys who shave their chest hair are labeled as ‘meterosexual’ or feminine. Girls who like short hair and do not use make up are called tomboys. These are outdated notions which I do not believe in or endorse. Boys and girls through generations will use their face and body to express their individuality. They will continue to make their own choices on the kind of man/woman they wish to be.
This article was inspired by a news report on school boys being thrown out of class for excessive grooming. And this was in Kerala, India! There are plenty of reasons why boys and men choose to use makeup and hair styling products. Makeup can help a young man appear more mature. Older men use make up to look more sleek and sophisticated. Grooming is a means for men to express, to impress and even make a statement. A well-groomed gentleman is sending out a message that he cares wells for himself. It may be an important requirement for certain jobs like airline attendants and hotel staff. It is an easy way to boost your self-confidence within minutes using a few sticks and tubes.
But there can be some problems with using make up and grooming tools. With time, they can turn into emotional crutches. You feel naked and vulnerable if you have to be out in public without them. Grooming rituals can be expensive and habit forming. It can be a time consuming and expensive process, depending on how many products you use. Over time, most people end up using more and more products, rather than less and less. Worse, studies show that over-groomed individuals are often perceived as superficial and untrustworthy.
What would define “over grooming”? You are using too much make up if it’s leaving stains on your collar and pillowcases. If using makeup leaves you with pimples, if your make up runs down your face when you sweat, if it takes over 15 minutes to wash off your makeup, or if your friends say you look unrecognizable without makeup… that means you are using too much make up!
A consumer study conducted in the United States of America made some interesting revelations on the top ranked beauty products and treatments used by men. 54% of the market belongs to hair removal products including razors, trimmers, waxing and laser hair removal for men. 33% sales belong to skin care products, 39% in lip balm sales, 29% to acne and blackhead removal products, 24% to facials, 9% in foundation, 11% in bronzer sales and 10% towards purchase of concealers. Besides the regular grooming rituals, there are other popular beauty and grooming trends among men, which were earlier considered to be the sole bastion of the female. These include waxing, eyebrow plucking, bleaching (including body bleaching), piercings, facials, manicures and pedicures, nail buffing, fake tans and eyelash curling. Besides visiting the salon, more and more teenagers and men are also visiting dermatologists, plastic surgeons and dentists for their beauty needs. The aim is to get rid of moles, scars, stretch marks, under eye bags, crooked teeth, stained teeth and excessive body hair, among other requests. Today’s man is not afraid of exploring surgical options as well; with hair transplantation and liposuction being the most popular cosmetic surgeries. Hair is a major area of concern for men – too much on the body, and too little on the scalp! Razor rash on the face is a very common concern as well. Men drive the market for the multi-billion dollar hair rejuvenation market. This includes hair growth serums, shampoos, oils, pills, laser combs, stem cells injections, vampire treatments (injecting your own blood to your scalp), wigs, weaves and other hair treatments. The motivation could be to improve dating or marriage prospects, job prospects or dealing with a break up or divorce. Peer pressure and fashion trends are also a deciding factor. A lot of middle-aged men use cosmetic and dermatological treatments because they feel that looking younger will help them stay relevant in the competition – for either women or the best position in their industry!
Most men end up using women’s beauty products. And there are still very few high end salons and spas dedicated to the beauty requirements of a man – young or old. However, skin care requirements for men and women are very different. A man’s skin is 20-30% thicker and more resilient. So cosmetic creams and chemical peels do not penetrate as well or as deeply. Also, men have more collagen and elastin in their skin, giving their skin better elasticity. Therefore, male skin does not sag or wrinkle as much as female skin. Men also have more sweat and oil glands in their skin. Which is why, some of the most common complaints we dermatologists receive are – dandruff, oily skin, pimples, blackheads and open pores. The other areas of focus are thinning hair, body build and genitals.
Attitudes differ as well. While women come forth with specific problem areas or beauty goals to achieve, men generally seek a more relaxed and refreshed look. Men are also more exposed to sunlight, sweat, dust, trauma, friction, tobacco smoke and pollution. Besides, they have their own gender-specific issues like razor burns, unwanted hair on ears and back, and uneven hairline on the beard. Women tend to be better patients and are disciplined and regimental when it comes to their skin care routine. My male patients tend to be keener on easy-to-follow skin care regimes, matte finish creams and minimal-downtime procedures. They are not very good at keeping follow-up appointments, do not tolerate pain as well as women do; and they hate a feminine look or a girly skin-care regime.
So is there a downside to a man wanting to look good? There are plenty, depending upon the man’s psychological state, their expectations and motivations, and the way they see themselves “without” make up and beauty aids. I have already written about the dangers of using fairness creams, getting tattoos and piercings, and opting for chemical hair treatments like permanent hair straightening and perming. A lot of men have suffered from skin infections, scars, bald spots and severely damaged hair, after blindly following these “Hollywood” trends without understanding the risks involved. They don’t bother to learn how to care for their skin and hair after getting a tattoo or a perm. Eyebrow, tongue, nipple and genital piercings can lead to long term scarring. Tattoos in visible areas like the face, neck or hands can actually damage your job prospects, as employers may view you as intimidating, impulsive and unprofessional.
The daily use of make up can be damaging as well. It can clog your pores, cause acne, allergic reactions, skin pigmentation problems and premature ageing of the skin as well. Keep in mind that despite constant public scrutiny, even celebrities prefer to go without make up when they are off-camera.
Herbal cosmetics are the rage these days, with men and women alike believing they are absolutely safe and chemical free. But a lot of so-called “herbal” cosmetics do not contain a single herb in them! Fairness creams can contain toxic chemicals like steroids, mercury and hydroquinone. These chemicals can cause long lasting skin damage. Mercury can even damage your kidney and nerves.
Hair gels, hair pastes and hair waxes are drying and damaging if used on a daily basis. So are hair straightening flat irons, if you do not pick the right model for your hair length, or if you do not know how to use them correctly.
Sculpting the perfect body and chasing the dream of having six pack abs has one serious health fall-out. And that is the use of anabolic steroids to achieve quick results and unnaturally large muscles. Earlier these drugs were mostly abused by athletes, body builders, actors and models. But lately, doctors are seeing a good number of regular boys abusing these inexpensive and easily available drugs to get a physique resembling their favorite movie star. The health complications include weight gain, high cholesterol and blood pressure, behavioral changes, liver cysts, testicular shrinkage and increased risk of heart attack. Anabolic steroids are highly addictive as well.
Excessive and unnatural obsession with one’s face and physique may in fact be an indication of a deep-rooted psychological disorder. This can be manifested as a tendency for compulsive skin picking and hair pulling. This is a psychiatric disorder which is frequently misunderstood. Many of us pop our pimples, and a few may cut themselves for pleasure. Skin picking, or “Dermatillomania” is very different from this, and is categorized under ‘Obsessive Compulsive Disorders’. It is often associated with borderline personalities, who are unable to control themselves, and feel a great sense of relief when they pick at their skin. But the marks and scars leave them feeling ashamed and self-conscious, which further triggers their skin plucking tendencies. A small subset of skin pickers complain about hallucinations or delusions where they see or believe that there are insects crawling underneath their skin. This is a severe psychosis which requires psychiatric attention.
The other extreme manifestation of the grooming fad among youngsters is a psychiatric disorder known as ‘Body Dysmorphic Disorder’ (BDD). If you are constantly looking in the mirror or unnaturally upset about minor imperfections, you might be suffering from BDD. You will visit multiple dermatologists and plastic surgeons requesting for treatment, though the doctors insist there is nothing wrong with you. This only makes you angrier, and when the doctor does agree to do perform the treatment, you are never satisfied with the outcome. This disorder may ultimately culminate in a full blown psychiatric disease like schizophrenia. BDD is a difficult to treat condition, and the sufferers are at high risk for suicide.
Culture will define the limits of ‘over grooming’. The focus should be to work towards achieving good skin and good hair, which will reduce the dependence on cosmetics. Take care of your skin in your teens, so you can reap the benefits as you grow older. Trust a good dermatologist, rather than blindly following trends and experimenting with multiple creams and cosmetics. Most importantly, as you take care of your skin, learn to take care of your self esteem as well. Both are just as fragile, and you must work hard at preserving them.
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